Food

Mung Bean Laphing at Phayul in Jackson Heights

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Square noodles of wiggly, translucent mung-bean jelly wobble like worms from another planet, in a sauce of dried chiles, chile oil, and tingly Sichuan peppercorns, with a light aftertaste of soy and vinegar, and a major presence of spring onions and garlic.

I eat the laphing in the garden as I look up at the trees and sky.

This dish coolly sizzles, but what is it, appetizer, pasta, or cold salad? I’m sure the health benefits of the mung-bean jelly are also worth experiencing, but, really, the amazing flavor and texture is enough for me.

Get it at the place reviewed in today’s Counter Culture, Phayul, a Tibetan aerie in Jackson Heights so close to the train station, you could rappel to it from the No. 7 platform.

A satisfying bowl of tsak sha la kor — beef with radish and Tibetan mountain herbs, with a couple of tingmo in the background