Although Birdbath Bakery primarily concerns itself with baked goods, it lavishes a considerable amount of its attention upon tofu.
In addition to smoking the humble soybean curds for its delectable smoked tofu sandwich, Birdbath serves it as an entrée of sorts, cut into cubes, encrusted in pistachios, and presented alongside roasted carrots and a nest of noodles, lettuce, and soybeans.
The tofu is soft and creamy, its bright green armor wonderfully crunchy, and its accoutrements uniformly top-shelf. The carrots are soft and sweet, the greenery is crisp, and the slippery, al dente noodles are great fun to slurp. They’re made even better by a container of sauce whose tangy contents taste like the result of a heated coupling between ranch and Green Goddess dressing. And at $11, the generous dish is a paean not only to tofu, but also economy.
37 Third Avenue
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 13, 2011
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