Robert Sietsema at Jones Wood Foundry; Lauren Shockey at Monument Lane


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples Brit bites — not English tapas! — at Jones Wood Foundry; Lauren Shockey finds Monument Lane a bit of a bore.

Sam Sifton is enchanted by Brushstroke: “The menus are the product of thousands of hours of research and testing by Mr. Bouley and his partners. The point is art as much as illustration of their expertise. And the result, dutifully prepared, falls directly between the poles.”
[NY Times]

Jay Cheshes raves over Brushstroke: “The dishes, gorgeously plated on handmade Japanese stoneware, flow like parts of a symphony, from muted petals of raw kombu-wrapped sea bass one night to a rich and restorative black truffle custard, with crab underneath and sweet mirin on top.”

Ryan Sutton is thoroughly unimpressed with Imperial No. Nine: “Sam Talbot isn’t a very reliable chef. That’s the impression I got after several meals at the disaster that is Imperial No. Nine, a pretty restaurant filled with pretty people eating pretty lousy seafood.”

Instead of a review, Steve Cuozzo bemoans the clubby atmosphere and subpar food at Lavo, Kenmare, and Hotel Griffou: “Overcooked fish upstairs, underage boozers downstairs — vertical integration, after-hours style … how much more fun when you wait 90 minutes for a table reserved a month ago!”
[NY Post]

Gael Greene finds that Casa Nonna has improved since opening: “A rush to judgment can be dangerous. After 42 years reviewing restaurants, it’s no surprise that it can take months, even a year, before a restaurant fits into its bones, longer for brilliance.”
[Insatiable Critic]