Another day, another restaurant proclaiming its allegiance to the American South, or at least its more deep-fried elements. The newest member of the confederacy is SoCo, a Clinton Hill establishment that takes its name from the likker bottle and its cuisine from, well, a few places. According to Zagat, it’s billing itself as “Southern fused,” and while that may bring to mind an unfortunate spinal condition, it instead seems to mean things like baby-back ribs doused with Asian barbecue sauce. There are also Edison bulbs and exposed brick, which you could say is a fusion of Southern food with … Brooklyn.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 13, 2011