Among our favorite ways to celebrate peak alfresco dining season is cold beer and hot, fried bivalves. And there are few better places to do this than Franklin Park.
That’s owing largely to the oyster po’boy, which appears as a special on the beer garden’s menu. Size-wise, it falls on the Shorty end of the spectrum, but is crammed full with enough fat, cornmeal-dredged oysters that size, in this case, really doesn’t matter. The oysters sit cheek by jowl with onions, tomatoes, lettuce, a few bread-and-butter pickles, and ribbons of slightly tangy slaw, and are all but obscured by a canopy of crispy shoestring fries.
Purists may complain that the bread the sandwich is served on is more similar in texture to a baguette than the French bread used in a traditional po’boy, but it’s just as able a vessel for getting all of the good stuff to your mouth, and then sopping up whatever is left over. And really, if you’re sitting in the sun with a beer and a pile of fried food, then life’s pretty good, regardless of what tradition dictates.
618 St. Johns Place, Brooklyn
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 14, 2011
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