Geez, New York Times and Marcus Samuelsson — get a room! The Gray Lady has already given up plenty of inches of copy to the Red Rooster chef-owner — never mind documenting his wardrobe in intimate detail — but has still managed to find more to print. This time, the Style section takes a look at the racial harmony and slick threads to be found at Samuelsson’s Harlem dining destination. Just let this sidewalk café scene entice you:
Young men wearing cotton Breton fishermen’s sweaters, rolled jeans and Topsiders; African immigrants in brilliantly patterned head wraps and flowing robes; young boys with their hair styled in neo-retro Kid ‘n Play flattops; waitresses with plaited dreadlocks swept up into cantilevered coiffures; men in seersucker suits and straw trilbys with stingy brims; matrons dressed in flowing celestial-white ensembles; teenage boys with saggers slung so low on their hips that they’re forced to pluck at them, delicate as antebellum maidens, to keep them from dropping to the ground.
But not everyone is giving the chef editorial love.
According to the Post, several Hamptons magazines are refusing to — or at least avoiding — covering a new upscale food festival that will be hosted by Samuelsson. Dan’s Taste of Two Forks, which will feature dishes from 40 restaurants and wines from 20 vintners in Bridgehampton this Saturday, is named for Dan’s Papers, a longtime weekly that was recently bought by Manhattan Media. East End magazines are said to be abstaining from writing about the event for fear of boosting a competitor. Don’t they know who is hosting this $150-ticket shindig? In the spirit of Samuelsson’s restaurant, can’t they all just get along?
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 14, 2011