The cold fried chicken and oysters with bacon isn’t the only brunch dish worth ordering at Fort Defiance in Red Hook. One of the best mid-morning dishes we’ve had in ages is the eatery’s Dutch pancake.
Not to be confused with a Dutch baby (a crepe-like pancake), this $10 fruit-studded delight really resembles a light skillet cake. It comes in a piping-hot cast-iron pan and is topped with warm blueberry compote, a little maple syrup, and a gentle dusting of powdered sugar. And it arrives with a side of crispy bacon, which really just sweetens the deal, since bacon makes everything better. True, pancakes are few and far between, and honestly, we don’t even love pancakes all that much. This is not a pancake. This is so much more than a pancake.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 15, 2011