“Sweet tea brined young chicken” is Dish No. 81 in 100 Dishes to Eat Now.
St. Anselm has been resurrected, and the new menu features meat, poultry, and fish cooked on a griddle or a flaming grill. Some of the stuff is rather normal, but some of it is surpassingly strange, including this wee chicken that arrives with head and feet on, looking like a casualty from a tenement fire (somewhat gruesome, right?).
Well, the strange finish is most likely the result of brining in sweet tea, rendering the darker meat sweet and the lighter meat bouncy. Through caramelization with some charring probably thrown in, the skin is rendered black, and uncrisp. In other words, toss the skin away and enjoy the chicken.
Of course, leaving the head and feet on the chicken is kinky itself. Since the cooking method doesn’t make them edible, they’re really just for show. Well, at least you can practice “nose to tail” eating if you dare.
In fact, it reminds us of another recent over-the-top chicken — the one at Fedora that included a deep-fried foot. Whether you exclaim “Yuck” or “Yum” is entirely up to you …
The fried chicken at Fedora comes with a special surprise.
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 18, 2011