Although herring is most often associated with Scandinavian smorrebrod and Jewish appetizing stores, it’s also got a special place in many a Trinidadian stomach.
That’s thanks to the fry bake, a breakfast bread that’s often filled with generous portions of the small, fatty fish. One of the best examples we’ve found is at A & A Bake and Doubles, a tiny storefront on Nostrand Avenue in Bed-Stuy.
At A & A, you can get your fry bake fried or roasted. The latter, pictured above, comes on a strapping slice of coconut bread, which is dense, fluffy, and thoroughly incapacitating. The barely sweetened bread makes a great delivery vehicle for the herring, which is served in chewy, salty nuggets that have been smoked and seasoned so that they bear an odd resemblance to bottarga. The fish is mixed with onions, all but guaranteeing that you’ll make friends on the subway.
It’s an unusual but delicious creation that will satisfy herring freaks, carbo-loaders, and the budget-minded in equal measure. For $4, you get what is basically the equivalent of two meals, and we recommend eating both with relish.
A & A Bake and Doubles
481 Nostrand Avenue, Brooklyn
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 20, 2011
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