This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds “unexpectedly grand” food at the Trilby, the latest incarnation of the Cooper Square Hotel’s restaurant.
Steve Cuozzo finds hits and misses at Boulud Sud: “Its creations vary in finesse, as they do in origin. ‘Sud?’ my Paris-born friend sniffed of the word for south. ‘In France, they would not call this ‘Sud.’ The food is too refined to call it Sud.’ Well, sometimes it is. There are more flubs than you expect after three months.”
Ryan Sutton likes the food, but not the atmosphere, at Niko: “Something’s not right at the hip Soho hangout Niko. That’s a shame, because the gastropubby food is downright great. … Eating here can be a deeply unpleasant experience because [owner Coby] Levy and his team seem to go out of their way to make commoners feel invisible.”
Jay Cheshes is on the fence about the Beagle, where the food is “mostly solid, sometimes inspired. And the cocktails that remain a focus here are expertly done. But the menu, which encourages sipping through supper, makes a poor case for squeezing square-peg strong spirits into the round hole of a meal.”
Instead of a review, Ligaya Mishan rounds up the best frozen treats to be found around the city, including at People’s Pops, La Newyorkina, and Big Banana.
Gael Greene tries to stay on a budget at BLT Steak and approves of Jean Georges‘s venture into molecular cuisine: “A dizzying roller coaster ride into sensory bliss. ‘Oh my God’ moments where I imagine my pupils are dilating and I want to jump up and down but I’m afraid my head will hit the copper-leafed ceiling.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 20, 2011