While The New York Times was sampling the frozen treats that predominate at the city’s markets this summer, Jeremiah Moss was busy searching the Lower East Side for shaved ice — but not the kind with its own Twitter feed. Instead, he sought piragueros, the men who serve cups of the ice (or piragua) from little carts outfitted with bottles of flavored syrup.
All of them charge $1 for a small cup — except People’s Pops, which Moss likened disapprovingly to “a sno-cone that you have to figure out how to get into your mouth.” He concludes that “outside of the icy hubbub, beyond the gee-whiz factor, in an alternate universe where ‘artisanal’ isn’t even mentioned, you can still find the real thing. And, yes, it’s still the best.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 20, 2011