Maybe it’s perverse to crave something so hot and heavy when it’s 100 degrees outside, but such is the power of the Queens Kickshaw’s manchego and ricotta sandwich.
In addition to a generous amount of the two cheeses, the sandwich contains minted eggplant and pickled raisins, all served between two thick and extremely buttery slices of multigrain bread. Both the eggplant and raisins ably cut through the fatty morass of butter and cheese, and, together with the nutty, chewy bread, make the sandwich feel weirdly wholesome.
Given the amount of butter on the bread (and your face, and fingers), that, of course, is sheer delusion. But when a sandwich is this good, it doesn’t really matter either way.
The Queens Kickshaw
40-17 Broadway, Queens
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 21, 2011