This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema treks out to Queens’ Little Himalayas for momos and other Nepalese stables at Bhim’s Café and Lali Guras. Lauren Shockey welcomes Filipino food back to the East Village at Sa Aming Nayon.
Sam Sifton awards a star each to Palm and Palm Too: “Palm is for groups, for first-timers and those who gather around them, for anyone interested in eating at the heart of the Italian steakhouse beast, with its composed salads and cold seafood, its excellent steaks, fat grilled lobsters and starches, or anything you’d like to consume under a blanket of melted mozzarella and sticky red sauce. … Palm Too is the more intimate Palm. … The food on both sides of the avenue is first-rate, at least if you stick to the original script of salad and tangy, prime-rated beef, or salad and huge, perfectly acceptable lobster, along with potatoes and greens.”
Adam Platt also files a twofer, claiming that, at the Dutch, “some of [Andrew Carmellini’s] experiments in nouveau comfort cuisine go awry.” About Leopard des Artistes, he remarks that “old-fashioned A-list celebrity spotting … makes a trip to the Leopard worthwhile, provided you’re willing to put up with the prices (only two entrées are under $30) and the steady procession of uneven, fairly rudimentary Southern Italian grub.”
Steve Cuozzo doesn’t hate Marble Lane in the Dream Hotel: “[Manuel] Trevino so far runs a credible kitchen. Bibb, Caesar and beet salads ($14 to $16) were fresh, crisply assembled and appropriately dressed. Loup de mer ($25) and olive-crusted salmon ($28) more than held their own.”
Ryan Sutton praises Brushstroke, where “the Kyoto-inspired cuisine [of kaiseki] may be plated with no more elan than a bowl of spaghetti. Thank David Bouley, the owner and resident chef Isao Yamada.”
Gael Greene approves of Miss Lily’s, where “jerk is not the only way to go. There’s a vegan Bushman plate, steamed grouper, and my oxtails layered with deep flavor from three days marinating in garlic, onion, scallion, ginger and carrot. The rice and beans don’t thrill me. Maybe you have to be born to it. Still I’m eating the cole slaw alongside — ordinary, but freshly made. And I’d be back for the ‘pasture raised’ curry goat with Irish potatoes.”
Tables for Two finds a lot to like at the Smile: “Marden’s homey, straightforward entrées mostly succeed, and where they don’t the fixes are obvious.”