Look at this photo, ye drunken Brooklyn bar-goers, and despair! Yes, it appears the tax man has taken possession of Rocio’s Bakery on the corner of Grand Street and Union Avenue in Williamsburg. Not that Rocio’s was the best bakery in the world or had good service or was even clean most of the time. But it was open 24 hours, making it one of the few bakeries that truly catered to the neighborhood’s diverse population, from blue-collar workers grabbing an egg sandwich and cheap cup of coffee early in the morning to kids looking for cookies in the afternoon to intoxicated hipsters spilling in from Union Pool, Barcade, and other nearby bars for a meaty Cuban sandwich or a plate of chilaquiles after last call.
The ingredients weren’t the freshest and the kitchen took forever, but the menu was full of bargains, like a crazy-big roast pork sandwich draped with American cheese for only $5. Hopefully the owners can get this tax business all sorted out, or you can bet your ass some eager restaurateur is waiting in the wings to open a Southern-influenced small-plates eatery on such a prime corner of Brooklyn real estate.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 27, 2011