Food

Dish No. 70: Egg and Sausage on a Roll at Sam’s Deli

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Sometimes the old foodways are the best.

Years ago at 9 a.m. each weekday morning, every worker sat in his or her cubicle devouring sandwiches on kaiser rolls stuffed with some combination of eggs, cheese, bacon, and sausage, washed down with very bad coffee.

Fear of fat has changed all that, but in certain retrograde delis around town the breakfast sandwich still lives.

One such place is Sam’s Deli in the West Village, where dog-walkers, stay-at-homes, and on-the-way-to-work types still furtively line up for the sandwich that all the health authorities told you to stop eating. In my case, it’s eggs barely scrambled, cooked in a thin large sheet on a griddle, and folded over, plus a sage sausage patty on a well-buttered roll.

I eat it every once in a while, and I’m still alive. I think.

Sam’s Deli
275 West 4th Street
212-727-9521

Check out our earlier 100 Dishes to Eat Now.

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