Sugar Sweet Sunshine is an old favorite of ours: Not only are its cupcakes far better than they need to be, it excels in its interpretations of many other members of the American dessert canon.
Chief among those is their banana pudding, which is rich, formidable, and the stuff of utter caloric happiness. This is a pudding that gets everything right, simply by paying attention to the details.
The ratio of cookie to banana to pudding is perfect, with each spoonful yielding plenty of buried treasure. The bananas themselves are just past ripe, so they’ve got that perfect combination of bite and squish. The Nilla wafers are Nilla wafers, meaning they’re one of those processed foods that we wouldn’t change for the world, much less attempt to revamp with politically correct ingredients and earnest platitudes. The pudding itself is thick and creamy, and serves as an excellent biding material for its substantial cargo.
The pudding comes in small and large portions. We’ve only ever eaten the small, which is $4, because it’s so filling we imagine that the large would incapacitate us for a week. Regardless of which one suits your fancy, you’ll find no better way to get the USDA’s recommended daily dose of potassium.
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 29, 2011