Dish No. 69: Shrimp Egg Foo Yung at King Food Chen


You can’t spare the gravy when eating egg foo yung!

Repository of over two centuries of Cantonese-American culinary history, the neighborhood Chinese carryout may some day in the future be a thing of the past, as modern Thai cafés merging carryout and cocktails supplant some, and others simply disappear as a result of real estate pressures and public displeasure over fried things.

Indeed, finding a good egg foo yung isn’t as easy as it once was, in the days when the ancient dish was available on nearly every city block. The deep-fried omelet contained lots of onions and sprouts (hey, sprouts are healthy, right?), plus your choice of fish, mammal, or poultry flesh or other vegetables.

You can find a spectacular version at King Food Chen, a carryout with a little bit of seating that has hopscotched all over Amsterdam Avenue on the Upper West Side in the last few years. Enjoy it while you can!