You can’t spare the gravy when eating egg foo yung!
Repository of over two centuries of Cantonese-American culinary history, the neighborhood Chinese carryout may some day in the future be a thing of the past, as modern Thai cafés merging carryout and cocktails supplant some, and others simply disappear as a result of real estate pressures and public displeasure over fried things.
Indeed, finding a good egg foo yung isn’t as easy as it once was, in the days when the ancient dish was available on nearly every city block. The deep-fried omelet contained lots of onions and sprouts (hey, sprouts are healthy, right?), plus your choice of fish, mammal, or poultry flesh or other vegetables.
You can find a spectacular version at King Food Chen, a carryout with a little bit of seating that has hopscotched all over Amsterdam Avenue on the Upper West Side in the last few years. Enjoy it while you can!
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 30, 2011
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