Food

Dish No. 66: Pernil at La Isla Cuchifritos

by

All you need is some white rice and black beans.

The combined Dominican and Puerto Rican institution of the cuchifritos stand slings all things pig and fried, including filled fritters in various shapes, blood sausages, fried skin-on ribs, boiled yuca with pickled purple onions, and the Cuban pork roast called pernil, which comes with a sharp garlic sauce.

Bushwick’s La Isla Cuchifritos is a relatively modern incarnation of the form, on a busy corner of Myrtle Avenue not far from the Ridgewood border.

The pernil can be bought by itself, perfect for sandwiches or just snacking. The meat is garlicky and moist, running from pale white to dark gray, and a piece of bronze skin rides atop. The skin is sometimes crisp, sometimes chewy, but you can be assured the pig wrangler will make sure you get your fair share.

The cuchifritos in the window are of uncommon freshness.

La Isla Cuchifritos
1439 Myrtle Avenue
718-417-0668

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