Robert Sietsema at Boulud Sud; Lauren Shockey at Hospoda


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is impressed by Boulud Sud: “Despite a few missteps, this is summer cooking par excellence, and the lightness of the food combined with the smallness of the portions means you won’t drift away bloated into the sultry summer evening.” Lauren Shockey falls for Hospoda, which is “breathing culinary life into East 73rd Street.”

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Leopard at des Artistes, where the food “has become a testament to the rustic joys of Sardinia and Sicily: simple food, apparently simply prepared.”
[NY Times]

Steve Cuozzo likes Beauty & Essex better than expected: “For all its good nature, Beauty & Essex has enough nuisances to spook those over 35 — like awful thumping ‘music’ and over-booking that guarantees your reservation won’t be honored on time. So, how come many customers are way over 35? Maybe because chef/partner Chris Santos’ ‘global’ menu is better than it reads.”
[NY Post]

Julia Moskin finds a lot to like at Monument Lane: “Even the bar snacks are inviting, like crunchy pork skins with a dip of honey and red wine vinegar ($5). With one of the thoughtfully composed cocktails, they make a fine course on their own.”
[NY Times]

Underground Gourmet files a rave over St. Anselm: “There’s a great new steakhouse in town — no, make that an amazing, wonderful, game-changing new steakhouse — and the funny thing is that it doesn’t even know it.”
[NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes also approves of Boulud Sud, where the “restaurant’s cooking plays to [chef-owner Daniel Boulud’s] strengths; it’s polished and elegant, and still fundamentally French.”

Gael Greene is taken with Bread & Tulips: “Will it hold up if the audience [chef Benjamin Lambert] deserves can’t find the way? I was ready to return the next day. I’ll be back for sure.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two files on the Highliner, which it deems “representative of the new Chelsea that is emerging on weekends, as visitors flood the elevated park the restaurant is named after: touristy, overpriced, and shiny.”
[New Yorker]