West of the Caspians, you can just call it “jizz biz.”
In Azerbaijani restaurants, it’s called “jizz biz.” This rather provocative name denotes a hash of potatoes fried with cubed animal organs of indeterminate distribution. Eat it in the dark. Over on the other side of the Caspian Sea, in Central Asia, the dish is called “geez beez,” and the potatoes are gone.
Instead, the classic sauté of liver, kidneys, lungs, and heart in butter at Uzbek restaurant Cupola Samarkanda II is cradled in a parabolic cracker called toki. The curved flatbread has precisely the same texture and flavor as a matzoh, reminding us of the long history of Jews in Uzbekistan, particularly in Bukhara.
The sautéed organs drip juice mixed with butter down on the toki, and the toki gets softer in places, leading to a nice crunch-to-squish ratio. An utterly delightful, and utterly shareable, appetizer. 1797 McDonald Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-375-7777
The late-night scene at Cupola Samarkanda II is one of Brooklyn’s wildest.
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 9, 2011