We’re not generally fans of ordering sides when frequenting restaurants since they usually end up being a rip-off, like $9 for a single chopped potato that costs, oh, 10 cents. But a recent visit to West Village newcomer Left Bank convinced us otherwise. The side dish listed as “Beans, Pecorino & Good Olive Oil” was downright delicious.
A pot ($8) comes filled with four different types of cold heirloom beans, all of them succulent and not at all starchy or mealy, the way so many beans can be. Instead these little gems bathe in fragrant olive oil and are showered with freshly grated pecorino cheese. A scattering of mint adds a burst of herbal refreshment. You’ll never be able to eat a can of plain old beans again. But maybe that’s a good thing.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 12, 2011