Although Alan Richman’s account of his horrendous experience at M. Wells has left a sour taste in our mouth, we’re still able to savor the memory of the baked eggs in tomato stew we ate there last week.
Vegetarian food is not exactly in plentiful supply among the restaurant’s plates of marrow bones, blood sausage, and tourtières. But what there is of it tends to be very good, as the dish pictured above illustrates. Its tomato stew is thick, earthy, and full-bodied, and garnished rather ingeniously with a blob of pesto that gives it a bright, herbal dimension. Salty parmesan shavings further obscure the eggs, which have been baked until their yolks are a violent orange hue.
Everything more or less begs to be scraped up by some hot, crusty bread, which the restaurant helpfully provides. It makes finishing every last bit of sauce mandatory, and also extremely pleasurable. And so we’ll remember the dish as one whose components work in perfect harmony, even if M. Well’s swan song has gone a bit off-key.