Not to be confused with the endangered imported Russian Beluga sturgeon, wild-caught white sturgeon is a robust swimmer that has a nice meaty flavor. One of the most interesting preparations of the fish we’ve had recently was at the Beagle, the new East Village hybrid cocktail bar/restaurant, where it’s served with cucumbers and lavender.
The sturgeon steak rests upon a bed of concentric cucumber slices, just mildly cooked so they still retain a hint of crunch. Flowering lavender sprigs and delicate herbs like chervil accompany the fish. The flavors taste almost Nordic, and look it, too — simultaneously rustic and refined, a palette of greens and cream. Only you don’t need to go to Noma to get it.