Maitake mushrooms roasted in Birreria’s wood oven need little accompaniment. They look so pretty with their fringe-y edges, decorated with pea shoots and glossed with green olive oil.
It’s part of a very vigorous mushroom program, possibly intended to take the place of conventional starches — of which there are virtually none at Birreria.
The maitakes are succulent, and further flavored with Sardinian sheep’s milk pecorino, a cheese beloved of Romans. Other mushroom dishes offered include king oysters in a hazelnut gremolata, and fried shiitakes with sage.
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