Food

Dish No. 45: Hickory Smoked Chicken Wings at Neely’s Barbecue Parlor

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Everybody likes Buffalo chicken wings, right? Well, the wings at the newly opened Neely’s Barbecue Parlor use the traditional Buffalo wings as a point of departure for an avian appendage that’s first smoked, fried to crisp the skin, then coated with a chipotle-based barbecue sauce, for a sweet and smoky savor.

If you know the Neelys from their gigs on Food Network, you’d never believe they could turn out good barbecue, but such is paradoxically the case — perhaps because they have little to do with the actual restaurant that bears their name.

The rest of the menu is rib-based, with styles that run from Texas ‘cue to Memphis ‘cue to Kansas City ‘cue. Reconfigurations of soul-food standard sides finish out the menu at this place — which looks inside like a Victorian mansion, or maybe an Old West cathouse — that lurks in the shadow of the 59th Street Bridge. Feelin’ groovy?

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