This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples the fare at Qi Bangkok Eatery, where “though the food can be excellent, the service tends toward the awful.” Lauren Shockey has a boozy meal at the Beagle: “Chef Garrett Eagleton dabbles with international influences and plenty of Greenmarket hauls, to mostly impressive results.”
Sam Sifton awards two stars to Roberta’s, which he deems to be “one of the more extraordinary restaurants in the United States.”
Betsy Andrews checks out new barbecue joints John Brown (“Not everything is amazing”) and Mable’s Smokehouse (“Brisket is smoky, tender and moister than any other in these parts. The sauce, doled out like liquid gold, has lip-smacking tang”).
Steve Cuozzo hopes El Quijote can survive its building’s new owners: “Although its food leaves much to be desired, it’s a charming and indispensable place nonetheless.”
Jay Cheshes approves of the reinvented St. Anselm, where “the grill touches nearly every hot dish, and many cold ones, too — even the most unlikely ingredients benefit from at least a quick sear.”
Gael Greene finds hits and misses at Fulton: “Pea soup is a summer triumph. … The vaunted macaroni with bits of prosciutto … is wildly overcooked, almost melting in too much cheese sauce.”
Tables for Two isn’t entirely impressed with Imperial No. Nine: “Small delights don’t add up to a satisfying meal, and the eclectic ‘global’ flavors don’t work as well with the main event, the seafood, which often winds up overpowered.”