Rockaway Taco made it safe for certain parts of Brooklyn to come to Queens. And while we have mixed feelings about this — not to mention the Brooklyn chauvinists who need to be reminded that they’re not actually in Brooklyn — we feel no conflict whatsoever about the virtues of Rockaway Taco’s fish taco.
It’s everything a fish taco should be: The long fingers of fish are lightly battered and deep-fried until they’re crunchy, greaseless and sublime; the guacamole is thick, creamy, and plentiful; the crema is tangy and endowed with just enough heat to keep things interesting; and the radishes, cilantro, and red cabbage are crisp, fresh, and a vibrant rejoinder to their unctuous bedfellows.
And while the assemblage could use a second layer of tortilla to keep everything together, cleaning up the wreckage is one of the more delectable pursuits to be found on Rockaway Beach.
95-19 Rockaway Beach Boulevard
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