This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema is shocked to find that at Neely’s Barbecue Parlor “much of the food is good, despite hatred of the restaurant spewed by Yelpers and others.” Lauren Shockey is charmed by Do or Dine, which “embraces a youthful (but still professional) spirit of chance-taking rarely found in today’s often yawn-inducing dining landscape.”
Sam Sifton lets Craft keep its three stars, praising the food for a lack of “overt theatricality. … Its presentation is simple, even plain. But such simplicity belies a truth about the restaurant’s cooking. There can be no hiding behind artifice. No lipstick is available for the pigs.”
Jay Cheshes is less impressed with Do or Dine, where many of the small dishes “read like a stoner-food prank … [while] the entrées tend to be far more sedate.”
Ryan Sutton cannot recommend either of the high-end dining options at the U.S. Open. At Aces: “The food is serviceable — better than a wedding banquet, though not by much.” At Champions: “The relationship between price and quality was less proportional.”
Steve Cuozzo writes about the “eye-popping views” of Church & Dey in the Millenium Hilton and Porter House in Time Warner Center, 10 years after 9/11.
Tables for Two raves over the Dutch: “The generously portioned entrées are where [Andrew] Carmellini reveals his enthusiasm: tender duck breast with pecan-studded dirty rice; succulent grilled quail with cashew mole and a poblano kick. Chicken smoked in-house, atop runner beans and more of those fine tomatoes, fell from the bone it was so moist.”