It’s always such a shame when a new restaurant is forced to shutter soon after opening due to some accident, like a fire. (We still peek into the blackened windows of Cochinita every time we walk by hoping for signs of life, but alas there are none.) A similarly unlucky establishment has fought its way back: The Pan American, in Nolita, is reopening tonight after a fire in the upstairs apartment building forced it to close this past spring.
A new executive chef, Harry Stoehr, who has worked at DB Bistro Moderne, will carry on the pan-American theme, with such dishes as deconstructed gazpacho in a martini glass, grass-fed beef tenderloin with a crunchy chimichurri panada, and aji- and spice-rubbed whole fish. Dinner service starts tonight, with lunch and weekend brunch starting Monday.