Robert Sietsema at Birreria; Lauren Shockey at Left Bank


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema ascends to the summit of Eataly, to Birreria, where “the food is superb.” Lauren Shockey is not so impressed by Left Bank: “Although the food and exceptionally friendly service more than pass muster, the culinary creativity is, well, lacking.”

Sam Sifton, in one of his final acts as Times food critic, awards one star to Hospoda: “Everything is prepared delicately, stylishly, the big flavors made demure by featherweight sizes, emphasizing modern presentation over traditional ones. ”
[NY Times]

Jay Cheshes is also a fan of the Czech gastropub: “Hospoda’s beer-cooling system, encased in glass beneath the bar, may be New York’s most state of the art. But it’s the accomplished food that’s the real draw here.”

Adam Platt approves of Tremont, which “isn’t your typically twee West Village restaurant after all. The … chef, Tim Bando, has a fondness for old-fashioned, country-style largesse.” Salinas also gets one star, for a menu “devoid of tricky, El Bulli-style emulsions and foams. You can get a nice glass of sangria at the curiously pokey little bar, and a roster of familiar ‘regional’ specialties (Ibérico ham, gazpacho made with heirloom tomatoes, a dank version of squid-ink-rich paella negra for two).”
[NY Magazine]

Instead of a review, Steve Cuozzo offers his “Anti-Fall Preview,” bemoaning the long wait for great food in the FiDi, “a serious Indonesian restaurant, real molecular cuisine as practiced in Spain, France, London and Chicago; a place to cook again for Laurent Gras,” and the arrival of “Peruvian curiosities, ‘sci-fi Korean’ and a $245 prix fixe-only Spanish menu, all from chefs of whom you’ve likely never heard.”
[NY Post]

Gael Greene checks out the new décor at Le Bernardin: “It is remarkable, dramatic and different, except for the magnificent coffered ceiling, of course, and Grandpa’s portrait over the new curving onyx bar. I like it. I wish I loved it … it was never the look that made me regard Le Bernardin as among the best, if not the quintessential place to celebrate, for a sense of France. It was and is the discipline, the proper French airs.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two is not so sorry that, with Alex Stupak’s Empellón, “‘fine dining lost a star.’ On the other hand, the rest of us gained an unbeatable taco-and-tequila joint serving inventive, unfussy fare.”
[New Yorker]