If the name of this dish could be properly written, it might read, “Soupy Mass of Chicken in a Wok,” which describes perfectly what it is.
Find it for a bargain price of $12 at He Nan Flavor, the new Henan restaurant in Manhattan’s Chinatown. It represents the third Henan restaurant in the city, hailing from a region southwest of Beijing, and having certain culinary commonality with the cuisine of the capital.
Flatbreads — cousins of the pita — are sold instead of rice, and it is with those that you must try to mop up the extra juices. Primarily flavored with dried chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, and Asian cumin, the poultry is fiery as hell, and seems to have been butchered by somebody who was really mad at the chicken (small pieces, bones flying everywhere). No matter — this dish is supremely delicious.
Or, instead of using the flatbreads to mop the juices, after the chicken is done the waitress will offer you a mess of wide homemade noodles to plunge into the sauce.
He Nan Flavor
68 Forsyth Street
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