Some words on menus are immediate hooks — the ingredients or preparations that make you immediately know that’s the dish that you want to order. “Deep fried” has a particular lure, as does “spicy coconut,” “butter-poached,” and “salted caramel.” Also: “bacon jam.” So when we paid a visit to the Cannibal (113 East 29th Street, 212-686-5480), the new meat-and-beer emporium adjacent to Resto, we instantly decided that appealing appetizer would be our monster jam for the evening.
A small crock comes filled with whipped, creamy duck liver mousse, topped with bacon and onion confit made with swine from Tennessee producer Benton’s. While the mousse is pretty rich on its own, the jam adds texture and a bit of sweetness that pairs nicely with the flinty liver taste. Spoon it onto the dark bread and you’ve got a lovely way to commence the meal. Now, can our local supermarket please start stocking bacon jam so we can have it on toast for breakfast every morning?
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 7, 2011