After two years as the Times food critic, Sam Sifton bid a heartfelt farewell to readers before riding off into the sunset (read: taking over the national desk). In his final review, he pronounced Per Se the best restaurant in the city. Yet, in his recap of two years on the job, he revealed that the fancypants restaurant didn’t serve him his best meal, after all:
The best meal I had on the job? It was in the garden of Frankies 457, on Court Street in Carroll Gardens, on a summer evening with my wife, my children and my brother. … There was bread as we needed it, water, more wine. The food was simple and elegant. The children behaved as they do when they are starving, and in love with what they are eating. Nothing was wrong. Everything was right.
Sounds nice. So, who is expected to take over from Sifton? The folks at Eater have their money on Brett Anderson, of the Times-Picayune, who may already be in town. That would make things interesting, given the Southern-food obsession of chefs around town these days. Dressed up oyster po’boys might be a tougher sell to an ex-New Orleanian.