While Californians are getting ready to remove the foie gras from their menus, here in New York there’s no better time to dig into the delicacy. Not just available at big-ticket houses of haute cuisine anymore, the highbrow ingredient is being used in inventive ways at all ilks of eatery. As the city gains more and more foodies, restaurant owners seem to be pumping out haute ingredients on all levels. Foie gras even making its way into your dessert course.
Settle in for a set-menu tasting at Bohemian, a Japanese restaurant on Great Jones Street, and you’ll be delighted to find foie gras in your soba. Chunks of the buttery fat come tangled in your buckwheat noodles, giving the overall dish, the final savory course, a heft and richness atypical of soba dishes. Or, if you’re in a whimsical mood, head over to David Burke Kitchen, where they’re currently ramping up to introduce a dish featuring oysters on the half shell topped with crispy duck tongue, sweet and sour rutabaga, and cubes of foie. We scored a sneak peek of the dish last week and can confirm it is worthy of a trip to the James hotel for a taste.
Brooklyn’s Le Comptoir does a foie gras crème brûlée; break through the torched top to scoop up the “fat liver” mousse. For brunch-time foie, you can head uptown to that perennial weekend favorite, Norma’s, where it’s served with brioche french toast. And, if dessert is more you’re style, you have two great options: Rouge et Blanc and Do or Dine. The former serves lobes of the stuff caramelized with a touch of miso and plated with poached pears, which is a nice fruity counterpoint, while the latter restaurant’s stoner version, a noted Fork in the Road fave, features a mousse piped into doughnuts. Yes, foie gras stuffed into doughnuts. Take that, California!