Robert Sietsema at Catania; Lauren Shockey at The Cannibal


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers Sicilian in Brooklyn Heights, but not Palermo-Sicilian, at Catania. Lauren Shockey goes all carnivorous at the Cannibal.

Eric Asimov approves of Salinas: “Classic, simple tapas like grilled bread spread with fragrant olive oil, garlic and tomato, or slivers of jamón Ibérico glistening with funky ham perfume are mingled with more complex starters like the tripe, or an elemental plate of large shrimp with garlic, white wine and lemon. Delicious, you’ve seen it before, and you can’t go wrong.”
[NY Times]

Ryan Sutton revisits Le Bernardin, raving, “There’s no better Manhattan venue for caviar. Le Bernardin shuns mushy Mississippi paddlefish for firm osetra — often from China, sometimes from Israel, never from depleted Caspian stocks. [Eric] Ripert is a man of the environment. He’s holding off on bluefin sales until he’s sure the Atlantic variety is sustainable. He sometimes dabbles in organic-farmed salmon; the bland flesh yields Le Bernardin’s sole miss.”

The Underground Gourmet is charmed by Mtskheta Café: “Nothing about Mtskheta’s dim, slightly forbidding façade portends the gastronomic delights that lie within. … If you’re unacquainted with the pleasures of the Georgian table, here’s a primer: Walnut sauce is to the cuisine as red sauce is to Italian-American, and at Mtskheta (named for the ancient capital city), various renditions of the stuff can be found massaged into a delectable eggplant roulade, puréed into a garlicky spinach dip, and blanketing a toothsome platter of fried chicken.”
[NY Magazine]

Tables for Two can’t hate on the Leopard at des Artistes: “It’s the kind of convivial, unpretentious place that, in the end, is practically un-hatable. … Unlike at other historic restaurants with buzzy new incarnations and Animal Planet names — hello, Monkey Bar! — the food at the Leopard is far from an afterthought.”
[New Yorker]

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