This week in the Voice, Lauren Shockey samples the Japanese noodle soups at newcomers Chuko, Tabata, and Ramen Misoya.
Eric Asimov finds hits and misses at Saxon & Parole: “All told, one sits down to dinner at Saxon & Parole anticipating warmth, good times and satisfaction. Will the expectations be fulfilled? Yes and no.”
Ryan Sutton is not impressed with the new Frankies 570, in the West Village: “Stick with Carroll Gardens. Our pork was grilled into an arid, mealy chew. Lentil soup, a high point in Brooklyn, was nondescript, which was better than the rank rabbit liver terrine. For the privilege of eating such food, the host quoted a 90-minute wait and promised to ring us when a table was ready (and then forgot to call).”
Adam Platt gives one star to Romera, calling out neurologist-turned-chef Miguel Sanchez for, ahem, “botching the operation”: “There’s a soft, deliberately blanched quality to Dr. Romera’s mannered style of cooking (he famously substitutes a cassava gel for pork fat), which is accentuated, as dinner progresses, by the specially brewed, vaguely medicinal ‘Aqua Gourmand’ potions and vegetable broths he serves with each course.”
Steve Cuozzo gives Romera more credit, but finds the $245 price tag over the top: “For all the cackling over ‘neurogastronomy,’ dishes at this $5 million folly taste as original, and as good, as they look. … If they were $100 less than the $245 prix fixe, and shorn of gimmicks like flashcards about each dish seemingly written for Bloomingdale’s fragrance floor (‘scent of musk … emulates a pheromone-like effect’), this might be a three-star place with four-star potential.”
Jay Cheshes approves of Fatty ‘Cue, in the West Village, deeming it “a new Fatty flagship, the sexiest of the bunch, with more elevated food, service and drink. … This is the first of the Fattys that won’t give you gout if you eat there too much. Some of the food is in fact remarkably delicate.”
Tables for Two notes that, with a new chef, Monument Lane has improved: “Early reviews were gently deprecating, and the original chef, an alumnus of Picholine, soon left. … However, a new chef, Robert Berry, formerly of Cookshop, took over a few weeks ago and has effected an instant and considerable improvement. He kept the most successful dishes from the old menu (a perfect lobster roll) and ditched clichés both high end and low. Execution is vastly improved.”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 2, 2011