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La Mar Cebicheria Peruana’s Ceviches and Tiraditos

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Hands down the best thing on the menu is the restaurant’s signature tiradito, dubbed La Mar: sliced raw hamachi in a gentle yellow aji-pepper sauce flavored with cilantro.

This week, Counter Culture ascends the Andean heights of La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, at our new branch of a celebrated Lima ceviche restaurant, where, in addition to fancified native ceviches, the menu dabbles in the Peruvian version of sashimi, called tiraditos. The raw-fish component is unqualifiedly excellent; you’ll have to read the review for our opinion of the other stuff.

Prettily decorated with black sesame seeds, the Chifa tiradito features fatty salmon-collar sashimi in a passion-fruit marinade.

By contrast, the ceviche called Chifa is a tangled but delicious mass of hamachi, pickled vegetables, micro-herbs, and wontons (a “chifa” is a South American-style Chinese restaurant) in a black-sesame leche de tigre dressing.

Salmon, shrimp, and octopus (cooked) join fried calamari (also cooked) in a green leche de tigre in the ceviche known as Popular.

The tasting of three ceviches will set you back $24, from left to right: Popular, Elegance, and Nikei.

The wall of suspended corn as you ascend to the upstairs dining room

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