This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema relishes the raw selections at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, but can’t fully stomach the eatery’s carbophobic causas. Lauren Shockey plays with her food at RedFarm, which boasts Pac-Man-like shrimp dumplings along with other unique apps.
Eric Asimov praises imaginative Rouge et Blanc, but notes several lackluster dishes: “Rouge et Blanc has its eccentricities, like the foie gras, but mostly it has its pleasures. The restaurant is hampered by a lack of polish and consistency, but I’m swayed by its creativity, vision and, yes, that wine list. It’s an inspired neighborhood restaurant that overdelivers.”
Ryan Sutton also isn’t impressed by La Mar, saying that Gaston Acurio’s $5.5 million venture is boring: “La Mar is a fair, forgettable restaurant serving family-friendly, generic versions of Peruvian cuisine. The food will neither offend nor inspire. It’s the Andean equivalent of TGI Friday’s.”
Steve Cuozzo likens Ellabess’s red wine to pedicure water: “The room remains the dorkiest, where you’ll ever spend up to $30 on an entree — or, if you’re as brain-dead as the zombies on the sidewalk, $920 for a bottle of wine. And there’s a $150-a-head truffle menu! Yes! Ellabess now makes it possible to blow as much at the bleak corner of Elizabeth and Kenmare as on Central Park South. Just bring a taste for red wine served warm enough to soak your feet in.”
Tables for Two is inspired by Kajitsu’s conscientious cuisine: “It’s one thing to walk away from an eight-course dinner feeling enlightened; it’s another altogether to leave feeling revitalized. Kajitsu achieves both with its haute Japanese food, which gives the dining tradition known as kaiseki a Zen Buddhist twist.”
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