Yeast donuts — the fried, fluffier yin to the cake variety’s mealier, drier yang — appear to be following the same path as other nostalgia-inducing sweet treats. Much like cupcakes, the snack has recently been treated as an ephemeral art form more than a dessert — increasingly approached with foodie verbiage and hype.
Granted, candied-fruit garnishes, liquor-infused fillings, and whatever other ingredients du jour that now get stuck on — or in — these pasties are a very welcome change from the waxy glazes and oozing custards typically encountered at doughnut chains.
No-frills yeast doughnuts can still stand out, though. So long as the ingredients are high-quality and the time between frying and serving remains minimal, they will have that surreally crustless, melt-in-your-mouth texture — that feel of pillowy, near-liquid bliss.
The no-frills, made-to-order miniatures at DuMont Doughnut, the sweet counterpart to the Bedford Avenue burger hangout, meet almost all these scrumptious specs.
An impressive shade of golden brown, they feel spongy and fluffy and have a cloud-like, semisweet interior.
The restaurant’s offerings — $3 for four rings, or $6 for nine — get prepped in a countertop fryer as you wait. After, they are sprinkled with your choice of flavored sugars, which vary.
The main problem with the pick: The sugars really don’t seem that distinct from one another — the cinnamon and ginger could have been interchangeable. But, hey — at least these doughnuts didn’t kill any geese.