Flex Doughnuts, the sweet counterpart to Flex Mussels from pastry chef Zac Young, has returned once again to Grand Central Station. Like its pop-up last year, Flex Doughnuts will be located in the Zócalo outpost in the food court on the dining concourse level and will be selling sweets through December. Needless to say, we went and checked out the goods.
Both yeast and cake doughnuts are available ($2-$3.50), plus a selection of the doughnut holes that Young is famous for. Needless to say, we tried a little bit of everything.
The first was a glazed pecan pie doughnut. It was topped with chopped nuts and glazed with icing. It was good, though not out-of-this-world.
Better was the pumpkin cake doughnut, which was nicely spiced and topped with dried cranberries and white chocolate shavings, although we would have liked the topping to have covered the whole top, rather than be sectioned off on different sides.
The trendiest flavor of all was naturally a mash-up of bacon, maple syrup, and bourbon in this log-shaped yeasty treat. The bacon topping was nice, but the bourbon flavor hardly came through.
Finally, we sampled the sugar-dusted yeast doughnut holes; several fillings were available, but we opted for one with peanut butter and another with both cream cheese and sour cherry. These were especially tasty because they came straight from the fryer, whereas the other doughnuts were room-temperature. However, the peanut butter filling was basically straight peanut butter, too heavy and mouth-coating. Better was the cherry cheesecake, fruity and with just a hint of tart.
Truthfully, these aren’t quite as good as those at Flex Mussels, simply because not everything can be made to order when working with large volume. They are decent doughnuts, though perhaps not quite as delicious as those at either Dough or Doughnut Plant. But if you’re hopping a train to New Haven, they’ll most certainly make for a tasty snack on the ride up.