Robert Sietsema at Indian Clove; Lauren Shockey at Mas(la grillade)


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema takes to his bike and visits Staten Island’s Indian Clove: “Despite its obscure location not far from Staten Island’s Atlantic coast, this slightly upscale spot might be the great multi-regional Indian restaurant we’ve all been waiting for.”

Lauren Shockey watches a restaurateur play with fire at Mas (la grillade): “Yet this new, bi-level West Village restaurant is unique in being decidedly upscale. And unlike at barbecue spots, where smoke is front and center, chef Galen Zamarra uses oak, apple, and other hardwoods for every single dish to add rich, subtle complexities.”

Eric Asimov samples Fatty ‘Cue’s signature spread: “Rarely has the nature of a butter pat been so altered and improved upon as it has at the new Fatty ‘Cue in Greenwich Village, the latest and best of Zakary Pelaccio’s small group of Fatty restaurants. Simply put, Vermont butter is wrapped in maple leaves that have been smoked and then soaked in rye whiskey.”
[NY Times]

Duck! Ryan Sutton thinks the “Met set” diners at Crown should beware of poor service: “When you’re paying $125 for cote de boeuf for two in a converted Upper East Side townhouse, you reasonably expect a certain level of service. Diners at Crown, however, are likely to encounter eager staff members who aren’t trained well enough to get the job done properly.”

Tables for Two got a surly text from RedFarm, which had the vibe of an airplane: “You run down the street as if about to miss a flight, and enter a dining room that feels less farmhouse than economy-class cabin. The walls may be whitewashed, and the bathroom may be covered in gingham wallpaper, but there are two distinct aisles, and to get anywhere requires a cavalcade of apologies. You can’t shake the suspicion that a beverage cart will come trundling past your table.”
[New Yorker]