So often, veggie pizza comes soggily sliced or scantily topped — making it an unlikely pick for an appetizing meal.
Rarely do pieces of this particular pie transcend these two fates. Typically, they have a waterlogged vibe, which can happen if canned vegetables get plopped onto sauce-covered dough. Or, pizzerias tend to just skimp on the garden delicacies, leaving you with a dissatisfying — vaguely legumey –plain slice.
At Cafe Amore’s (319 Sixth Avenue), a $5.35 portion avoids both of these fatal shortcomings. Each plate comes piled with fresh broccoli, garlicky spinach, crisp peppers, robust tomatoes, earthy mushrooms, and sweet, red onions. The bread, while moist, doesn’t feel soggy — and the bone remains crisp and golden brown. The cheese, meanwhile, balances gooey dairy with slight saltiness. Overall, the selection excels — like a beautiful, bountiful salad served on a hot, greasy slice.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 14, 2011