Say you come across as intriguing a menu item as “tuna ravioli.”
Curiouser and curiouser than the plate itself is where the pick gets served, since Italian food rarely comes from Asian fusion restaurants in the Upper West Side — as this offering does.
Anyway, you might assume that this plate would consist of fish-filled pasta pillows — like a gyoza of sorts — because of the name.
You would have assumed incorrectly, since Ozen’s $8.95 dish — though redolent with tuna — winds up falling marvelously far from the realm of ravioli.
The chefs at the restaurant (760 Amsterdam Avenue) create cylinders with a spicy, creamy blend of tobiko, crunchy tempura flakes, mayo, wasabi, and avocado. Then, they tuck the richly metallic fish around the paste, making orb-shaped dumplings.
The resulting flavors feel both hearty and cool — sumptuous sacks that uniquely blend the taste of the sea with that of a savory tree fruit.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 15, 2011