A few months ago we brought news of the white truffle occupation of Manhattan. Well, now white’s on the decline and black truffles are making their way into your macaroni and cheese. Only this time, everyone seems to be jumping on the funghi bandwagon.
If you have an extra $295 lying around, feel free to indulge in Tribeca restaurant Bouley’s Forager Game Dinner, which features not one but two dishes with black truffles. A dover sole/Dungeness crab/porcini mushroom flan floats in a sea of black truffle dashi, and the quail comes with an earthy black truffle consommé. The menu is available throughout December.
Over in Midtown, Bar Basque is giving their black truffles the fry. Shavings are mixed with mushrooms before being coated in bread crumbs and crisped into popable croquetas. Just a truffle-throw away, at Ai Fiori, Michael White is also shaving his prized orbs. They can be added, for a “few” extra dollars, to your meat entrée, or get your fix in the form of the Monte de Mare — scallops and bone marrow with black truffles.
And, though 51st Street’s Le Bernardin has gotten a little bit of a makeover, they’re up to their old tricks with seasonal truffle additions like Perigord truffle butter with baked cod and artichoke “barigoule.” If you check out their new lounge menu, you’ll find that the lobster “cappuccino” is served with celeriac soup, lobster foam, and shavings of Perigord truffle … for a very reasonable, comparatively, $14.
If you happen to be hitting up Harold Dieterle’s Greenwich Village restaurant Perilla, you’ll find not only a new entrée on tap, lasagna bianco, but also the occasional option to funk up the dish a bit. And if you’re really craving pasta and celebu-cheffage, feel free to hop up to 14th Street’s Scarpetta, where Scott Conant pairs his with fresh tagliatelle.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 16, 2011