The brand-new fries at Burger King have been rolled out.
Burger King has made a big fuss over its new fries, the first reformulation of that product since 1998, when the extra crispy and starchy fries were introduced. This time around, the fries are thicker, for the purpose of extra heat retention, and supposedly covered with a heat-retaining coating, too. (What could it be? asbestos?)
Part of the hoopla was a free-french-fry giveaway at all participating Burger Kings last Friday, in which everyone was promised a Value Size serving — while supplies last, of course.
I was not a fan of the earlier Burger King fries, because I thought they were often undercooked and underbrowned, and they seemed to have some sort of spray-on coating.
I’m afraid the new formula is not much of an overall improvement. The fries have moved in the direction of Greek diner fries, thick and starchy without being satisfying. They taste like they’ve been frozen, too, with that dank flavor that no amount of grease can dispel. Moreover, the new paucity of salt leads you to pay more attention to the grease these things are fried in. I don’t know what it is, but I bet I could lube my bike with it.
Alas, McDonald’s are still superior.
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 22, 2011