The Almighty Brisket at Joe Doe spin-off Joe Dough.
As sandwiches have undergone a resurgence in popularity over the last couple of years, restaurateurs have been studying how to make them bolder and greasier — raising the price tag and pushing foodie buttons in the process.
This Little Piggy, Potbelly, No. 7 Sub, Earl’s Beer & Cheese, and the now-defunct Bowery Beef are examples of places that have upped the sandwich ante in just this way.
Now along comes Joe Dough, located one block up First Avenue from This Little Piggy, and occupying a similarly small and narrow space, but still turning out big flavors from a limited menu of substances-between-bread.
Last week, Victoria Bekiempis reported on a sandwich with the intriguing name of Stoner’s Delight — really just a ramped-up toasted cheese. Yesterday, I rode over at lunchtime to sample their brisket assemblage, called the Almighty Brisket. Like all sandwiches there, it sells for $10, with a bag of chips and a beverage for an extra $4, making a rather steep lunch.
The sandwich is dense and somewhat compact, but bulging with a good quantity of roasted brisket. The brisket has been reheated in the broiler with a piece of cheddar on top and a coating of horseradish mayo. There are some pickled and sautéed onions in there, too, and the flavor of cracked peppercorns from the caramelized surface of the meat. The sandwich, on a brioche bun, is thus a riot of rich flavors.
I’m not sure this will prove to be my favorite sandwich there, and hence I’m going back to try them one at a time. This will thus be part of a serial review.
The insides revealed
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 28, 2011