The Almighty Brisket at Joe Doe spin-off Joe Dough.
As sandwiches have undergone a resurgence in popularity over the last couple of years, restaurateurs have been studying how to make them bolder and greasier — raising the price tag and pushing foodie buttons in the process.
Now along comes Joe Dough, located one block up First Avenue from This Little Piggy, and occupying a similarly small and narrow space, but still turning out big flavors from a limited menu of substances-between-bread.
Last week, Victoria Bekiempis reported on a sandwich with the intriguing name of Stoner’s Delight — really just a ramped-up toasted cheese. Yesterday, I rode over at lunchtime to sample their brisket assemblage, called the Almighty Brisket. Like all sandwiches there, it sells for $10, with a bag of chips and a beverage for an extra $4, making a rather steep lunch.
The sandwich is dense and somewhat compact, but bulging with a good quantity of roasted brisket. The brisket has been reheated in the broiler with a piece of cheddar on top and a coating of horseradish mayo. There are some pickled and sautéed onions in there, too, and the flavor of cracked peppercorns from the caramelized surface of the meat. The sandwich, on a brioche bun, is thus a riot of rich flavors.
I’m not sure this will prove to be my favorite sandwich there, and hence I’m going back to try them one at a time. This will thus be part of a serial review.
The insides revealed
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