This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema noshes on Jewish-American gems such as pastrami and gefilte fish at Tribeca newcomer Kutsher’s. He especially enjoyed the starters and stews: “The matzo-ball soup ($11) is close to perfection, with a clear, light broth and crushed-cracker orbs of the ‘big balls’ school. A wealth of chopped vegetables gives the potage body and staying power. It made me love matzo-ball soup all over again.”
Lauren Shockey takes a walk to La Promenade des Anglais. She can’t say enough great things about the prosciutto and clam croquettes: “These delicate béchamel bombs ooze with brine and are as creamy as can be. Think of them as the Frenchman’s deconstruction-reconstruction of New England’s classic chowder. Or don’t think — just stuff your face with ’em.”
Pete Wells finds himself tongue-tied at Wong: “Duck tongues, anyone? Say yes, please, because I think you’ll like the way Mr. Wong prepares them, braising them to tenderness, then rolling them into small meatballs with a crunchy fried crust. If Mr. Wong sold them to go, I’d buy them by the bag and eat them like popcorn.”
[New York Times]
Ryan Sutton says the sushi at Catch feels similar to that sold at a mall, but that the human décor ain’t bad: “Impossibly beautiful spindle-legged waitresses and waiters totter in and out of view in this Red Lobster for hedge funders. Such frills help explain why you’re paying $78 for your Cantonese-style crustacean.”
Tables for Two visits Tertulia and truly savors the restaurant’s simplest plates: “The menu consists of small dishes ranging from bites to bowlfuls, and the starters — meats, cheeses, toasts — sound dangerously simple enough to skip, but they should not be overlooked. The pan con tomate is an experience much greater than the sum of its ordinary parts.”
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