Moo Goo Gai Pan from Concord Garden (990 Amsterdam Avenue, 212-316-2866)
The moo goo gai pan typically encountered at takeout Chinese restaurants is said to come from an actual Cantonese dish that also happens to be named after the chicken and mushrooms present in most versions of the recipe.
Though the pick does not suffer from the normal problems present in brown-gravy-drenched plates, the poultry-stock-based sauce can feel weak and un-flavorful.
Concord Garden happens to serve up a pleasant plate that bursts with garlic and features an impressive medley of freshly cut veggies, including unexpected ones such as zucchini.
The chicken, though white meat, features a moist mouthfeel, and does not come over-starched.