A burger patty and pastrami cozy up to each other in the Bowery Special.
The pastrami — sometimes called “smoked meat” on the menu — is a thing of beauty at newcomer Bowery Diner. When a thick plank of it crawls into the bun where a hamburger is already happening, fireworks ensue.
The Bowery Special also features a slice of Gruyère cheese, which is just about the greatest hamburger cheese in the world, with the possible exception of American.
The hamburger ($15) is part of a seven-item burger program at this upscale refectory, trying ever so hard to still be a diner. It succeeds. The interior is more like Johnny Rockets than any diner you’ve been in lately, but who cares when the burgers are this good.
Brasserie-style french fries also better than they need to be.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on January 26, 2012