Chicken With Broccoli from Riceton (223 East 14th Street, 213-982-8999)
Consider chicken with broccoli. It’s one of the most bland and bemoaned plates that you could order at a Chinese takeout restaurant, since it’s basically boneless strips of bird and veg florets doused in gooey brown broth. Bo-ring.
Riceton’s $6.29 lunch special doesn’t wildly improve upon this dish, but it doesn’t make it any worse.
However, the pint of hot-and-sour soup that comes with the lunch — bubbling with mushroom, tofu, and egg: goddamn. The thick, spicy broth sated masterfully. Pass on the seaweed salad, though — it tastes a bit like something out of a sushi-selling bodega’s cold case.